Skip to content
Shock & Servo

Looking after it

How to clean an RC car

The temptation is a garden hose. The right answer is a brush, some compressed air and five minutes — because water does not damage an RC car on the day you wash it, it damages it over the following month.

By Ryder M. · Published October 6, 2026 · Last reviewed

An RC truck throwing up dirt on a trail

Shock & Servo is reader-supported. If you buy through a link on this page we may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. It never changes which products we pick or the order we rank them in — the full rules are on our methodology page and our affiliate disclosure.

Clean an RC car dry wherever possible: take the body off, blow the loose dirt out with compressed air, brush the rest off with a stiff paintbrush, and wipe the chassis with a damp cloth rather than a running tap. Then dry everything and put a drop of oil on any exposed metal. The reason is not that water instantly kills electronics — many hobby-grade cars have waterproof speed controls — but that water sits in bearings and in the gaps around metal parts and produces rust over the following weeks. The car that dies from washing dies a month later.

Short version: body off, compressed air, stiff brush, damp cloth, dry thoroughly, oil the metal. Never a pressure washer, never a hose into the chassis, and never put the battery back in until everything is dry.

The five-minute routine after a normal run

  1. Disconnect and remove the battery. First, always. Everything else is safer with no power in the car.
  2. Take the body off. Four body clips. Most of the dirt is underneath it and you cannot reach any of it with the body on.
  3. Blow it out with compressed air. A can of air or a low-pressure compressor gets grit out of the suspension, the gearbox vents and around the motor far better than any brush.
  4. Brush the chassis and the wheels. A stiff paintbrush, an old toothbrush for the tight corners. Work from the top down.
  5. Wipe with a barely damp cloth, then dry with a clean one. Damp, not wet, and not into the electronics.
  6. Check as you go. This is the real value of cleaning: you will find the cracked suspension arm, the loose screw and the wheel nut working free. Five minutes of cleaning catches the thing that would have ended the next run.

What never to get wet

PartWater?Why
Speed control and receiverOnly if rated waterproof, and even then sparinglyWater inside a non-sealed ESC is usually terminal
MotorNoA brushed motor's internals corrode; a wet bearing seizes
BearingsNoWater displaces the grease, and the rust starts quietly
Battery and its connectorNeverRemove the pack before cleaning anything
Chassis, arms, wheels, bodyYes, with a damp clothThese are the parts you are actually cleaning
TiresYesRinse and let them dry fully before storing
Waterproof-rated electronics survive a soaking. Nothing on this list enjoys one.

After mud

Mud is the one case where some water is unavoidable, because dry mud is concrete. Let it dry first, then crack it off with a brush — far more comes away than you expect. For what remains, use a damp cloth and work in sections, and do not direct a stream of water anywhere near the electronics. Afterwards, pay particular attention to the wheel bearings and the driveshafts, which are where the last of the grit hides, and oil the exposed metal when you are done.

After sand

Sand is the worst surface in the hobby for wear, because it is abrasive and it finds its way into every bearing and gear mesh. Compressed air is essential here rather than optional, and the gearbox is worth opening if the car has been run on a beach. Rinse the tires separately. Our roundup of the best RC cars for sand explains which sealed designs cope with this and which do not.

After snow and wet grass

Snow is water that arrives slowly, which makes it sneakier than mud. Bring the car inside, dry it with a cloth and then leave it somewhere warm — not hot — for a few hours before storing it, and oil anything metal. Wet grass does the same thing with the addition of clippings packed into the driveshafts. The best RC cars for snow covers which cars are built for this; the cleaning routine afterwards is the same for all of them.

Never use a pressure washer

It is the quickest way to ruin a car that was otherwise fine. A pressure washer drives water past every seal the manufacturer fitted, strips the grease out of bearings and differentials, and forces grit further in rather than out. Videos of people doing it exist. So do the follow-up videos about the replacement bearings. A brush and a can of air cost less than one set of bearings.

The three things that make this easy

#ProductBest forScorePrice
1
The chassis of an RC car with its electronics and wiring visible
An RC hex driver tool setThe L-shaped keys in the box round off after a few uses. A proper driver set is the first upgrade nobody thinks of.
Fixing it yourself8.3
2
Shelves of radio-controlled models in a hobby shop
An RC car maintenance standHolds the car with its wheels off the ground so you can work on it without it rolling away.
A small extra gift7.8
3
Battery packs stored together in a protective case
A LiPo-safe charging bagThe cheapest sensible thing you can add to any gift that includes a LiPo battery.
Charging safely8.5
The chassis of an RC car with its electronics and wiring visible

Illustrative photo — not this exact model.

#1 · Fixing it yourself

An RC hex driver tool set

The L-shaped keys in the box round off after a few uses. A proper driver set is the first upgrade nobody thinks of.

8.3/10our score for this use

Hobby-grade cars are held together with small hex screws and nuts, and the folded metal keys included in the box are made down to a price. A set of proper hex drivers and nut drivers turns a twenty-minute repair into a five-minute one.

What it does well

  • Makes repairs quick enough that they actually get done instead of shelving the car
  • Stops screw heads being rounded off by a badly fitting key
  • Works on every brand in this hobby

What it does badly

  • Not an exciting thing to unwrap on its own
  • Cheap sets use soft steel that wears quickly
  • You need the right sizes for the specific car, usually metric
Shelves of radio-controlled models in a hobby shop

Illustrative photo — not this exact model.

#2 · A small extra gift

An RC car maintenance stand

Holds the car with its wheels off the ground so you can work on it without it rolling away.

7.8/10our score for this use

A simple platform that lifts the car off the bench. It sounds trivial until the first time someone tries to check the wheels of a car that keeps driving itself off the table.

What it does well

  • Cheap, useful, and the kind of thing an owner never buys for themselves
  • Makes checking wheels and suspension a one-person job
  • Most are adjustable across scales

What it does badly

  • Purely a bench accessory — it adds nothing to the driving
  • The plastic ones flex under a heavy 1/8 truck
  • Takes up bench space
Battery packs stored together in a protective case

Illustrative photo — not this exact model.

#3 · Charging safely

A LiPo-safe charging bag

The cheapest sensible thing you can add to any gift that includes a LiPo battery.

8.5/10our score for this use

A fire-resistant pouch that the battery sits inside while it charges. LiPo batteries very rarely fail, but when they do they do it energetically, and every experienced owner charges inside a bag or a metal tin.

What it does well

  • Costs very little and removes the one genuine hazard in this hobby
  • Doubles as somewhere to store packs between uses
  • Fits any battery, any brand

What it does badly

  • Not a magic shield — a charging battery still needs to be attended
  • The cheap ones have flimsy zips
  • One more thing to remember to use

Storage, which is half the job

How we assessed this

From how these vehicles are built: which parts are sealed, which carry grease that water displaces, and which are consumable. Waterproofing claims are the manufacturers' own, and where a car on this site is described as having a waterproof speed control that comes from the maker's product page. We do not test these products first-hand — our methodology page explains what that means.

Questions people ask

Can you wash an RC car with water?
Lightly, with a damp cloth, after removing the battery and the body. Do not hose it, do not use a pressure washer and do not direct water at the motor, bearings or electronics. Water in bearings produces rust over the following weeks, which is the real damage.
What is the best way to clean an RC car?
Body off, battery out, compressed air to blow the loose dirt out, a stiff brush for the rest, then a barely damp cloth and a thorough dry. Oil any exposed metal afterwards. The whole routine takes about five minutes.
How do you clean an RC car after mud?
Let the mud dry first, then crack it off with a brush — most of it comes away. Use a damp cloth for what is left, work in sections, and pay particular attention to the wheel bearings and driveshafts where grit hides.
Can you pressure wash an RC car?
No. A pressure washer drives water past every seal the manufacturer fitted, strips grease out of the bearings and differentials, and pushes grit further in. It is the quickest way to ruin a car that was otherwise fine.
Do waterproof RC cars still need cleaning?
Yes, and arguably more carefully. A waterproof rating covers the speed control and receiver, not the bearings, screws and metal driveline parts, all of which still rust. Dry the car thoroughly and oil the exposed metal after any wet run.
How often should you clean an RC car?
After every run on sand, mud or snow, and after every few runs on dry ground. The real benefit is not cleanliness — it is that cleaning is when you find the cracked arm and the loose wheel nut before they end the next run.

Sources

Read next